Sunday 17 April 2016

Things to see and do in West Cork

OUR family upped sticks and moved from Dublin to Clonakilty three years ago in January. The first few months we spent getting to know our surroundings and settling in and by the time summer came around we'd found our groove. And what a summer it was. My husband, having grown up here, was always raving about the fact that it's always a few degrees warmer and how I'd notice the difference weather-wise in comparison to home in Donegal, and even Dublin. So that summer, when we basked in temperatures of up to 30 degrees, I really felt like we'd hit the jackpot and moved to Ireland's answer to the Costa del Sol. The following summer was similar but third time wasn't so lucky - last summer was a washout and sometimes it feels like it hasn't stopped raining since. The good news it's supposed to be another scorcher this summer. Yay! Seriously though, we have moved to one of the most beautiful places on the planet and you should definitely make it your mission to visit, whether it's raining or not. One of the blog's readers got in touch a while back to ask me to write a blog post about things to do with kids when visiting the area and it's taken me ages to actually get around to it, so here it is...An almost local's guide to holidaying in West Cork...



It’s easy to see why this part of the world has got a reputation the world over as the go-to location for breaks that suit everyone. During the summer, you will hear all sorts of accents and people travel from all over Ireland as well. It's no wonder there are so many 'blow ins' from the States, Germany, the UK and the rest of Europe - people who come generally don't want to leave. The food on offer across the board is varied and delicious - a foodie paradise, if you will. From packing a picnic of goodies from the Lettercollum Kitchen Project in Clonakilty to feasting on fresh seafood cooked to perfection at Deasy’s in Ring, to snacking on Masterchef Ireland winner Diana Dodog’s culinary masterpieces at the Food Depot food truck in Courtmacsherry on Sundays, there's something for everyone. That, plus the gorgeous markets - I love the Clonakilty one, which takes place on Fridays, and the one in Skibbereen on Saturdays. In Clon, I highly recommend a pizza from Ron's Oven or a massaman curry from the Thai food stall. There's also a lady who sells crepes that are always a huge hit with the kids, and during the summer there's a juice and smoothie stand. Other places I'd highly recommend are Monk's Lane in Timoleague, Pilgrim's in Rosscarbery and Scannells in Clonakilty for lunch.


Everything in this part of Ireland seems to have been conjured up with families in mind: miles of glorious beaches to tire out little legs - Dunworley, Red Strand, Long Strand, Owenahincha - the list goes on. Inchydoney was recently named the best beach in the country but we always gravitate towards Red Strand during the summer. It's less crowded and parking is easier. Plus there's less of a walk to get to actual sand from the road. You also can't beat the view to Galley Head lighthouse from the shore. It's paradise on a sunny day. There are nature and bike trails galore in West Cork too. And Rineen Woods near Union Hall and Glandore is a must for families with young children. A gentle hike through a winding path through a forest, framed on one side by a sheltered inlet. But the most magical part for the kids are the teeny tiny fairy houses along the paths. Watching the children gleefully skip along the path looking for the next fairy house is what memories are made of.


Another hit for us is the Golden Pheasant in Courtmacsherry. This place is a godsend on a busy day - somewhere to sit and rest our weary bones and have a cup of tea and a yummy slice of cake, or an ice-cream for the kids. It also houses a gift shop with local arts and crafts and souvenirs and books. But the best bit as far, as the kids were concerned, is the aviary - which even trumped the ice cream. A host of colourful birds are housed outdoors under the fresh West Cork air. A large, wise owl, reminiscent of a Gruffalo character is the highlight, his big eyes staring back as the kids gaze at him in wonder. There's also a gorgeous walk in the woods in Courtmacsherry if you go to the end of the village, you'll see signs. And it's famous for its bluebells in May - stunning. A walk around Liss Ard estate is gorgeous and the Sky Garden there is fabulous. I've also heard that boating on Loch Hyne is brilliant and Atlantic Sea Kayaking caters for kids as well. My kids also love the Model Railway Village in Clon - you can see a miniature version of all the West Cork Towns, there's an indoor soft play section and the highlight is a tour of the town on the 'choo choo'. There's the free West Cork Museum in Clonakilty as well, and a Michael Collins museum is due to open in the town shortly.


One thing about holidaying in Ireland is that you’re not guaranteed the weather. Places like The Treehouse in Skibbereen provide shelter and coffee on rainy days. A play centre for kids of all ages, the Treehouse is a lovely, clean space where the kids could let off steam and play on slides and soft play zones. For older kids there’s also Funmanway adventure centre in Dunmanway and the Smugglers Cove adventure golfing in Rosscarbery. Other fun days out included a visit to the Hobbit House at Glenview Gardens in Enniskeane. We had so much space to breathe in the fresh air and marvel at the beautiful coast around us. A hike up around Galley Head, for example, does the soul good. There's no clutter there, zero high rise, everything is a feast for the senses. Baltimore, just outside Skibbereen is gorgeous too, and I highly recommend lunch and a walk at Glebe Gardens while you're there. I've also heard amazing things about Garnish Island, which you get to from Glengarriff - we're definitely going to make it out there this summer.

West Cork isn’t as far away as you might think - the M8 motorway makes Cork city a fairly quick spin from Dublin, and less than an hour from the city, you’ll be in Clonakilty, where the rest of West Cork awaits just a short drive away.







Useful links: 





Atlantic Sea Kayaking: http://www.atlanticseakayaking.com

Model Railway Village, Clonakilty. http://www.modelvillage.ie

Pilgrims Restaurant Rosscarbery: http://pilgrims.ie

Scannells in Clonakilty: http://www.scannellsbar.com/



Info on Rineen Woods: http://www.unionhall.ie/walking.html






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