Nick Cave, Bono, Patti Smith, Lou Reed, Van Morrisson and most recently, Mark Hamill and co of Star Wars fame…The spot we chose for our anniversary night away has an impressive former guest list that goes on and on. Liss Ard Estate near Skibbereen in the heart of beautiful West Cork may be just over half an hour away from where we live, but in terms of a treat and relaxation, it was on another planet. It was the first time ever that we managed to get away as a couple since having kids, so the fact that the Blue Book-listed property is practically on our doorstep made the getaway that much easier. Being so close meant that it was much easier to get out the door and to our destination, first of all. Secondly, it was so much easier to relax, knowing that if anything were to happen or if the kids failed to settle for the babysitter, we could always just jump in a cab and come home. Thankfully neither happened and we managed to exhale, relax and enjoy our new found freedom - even if it was just for one night.
Liss Ard really surpassed our expectations. The sun was splitting the stones last weekend when we pulled in the tree-lined avenue that led up to the 19th century estate. The stunning chorus of birdsong and stillness masked the fact that it’s minutes from the thriving town of Skibbereen, with its pubs and restaurants and shops. The gardens at Lisa Ard seem to go on forever and we enjoyed a tour by local guide Ann Collins (www.walkabout.vpweb.ie), who was a wealth of information about the entire estate and local area. We meandered along paths, took in breathtaking views along the lake and had our minds blown by the Irish Sky Garden, designed by American artist James Turrell. The crater - which was built to be the perfect viewing platform for the Irish sky, day or night, has a stone plynth in the middle where two people can lie, toe to toe, and take in the peace and quiet and admire the cloudless, azure sky. Apparently it’s just as magical at night, when clear skies allow for a birds eye view of an Atlantic sky in all its twinkling splendour. It was strange being able to lay back and relax and not have three little pairs of feet to be worrying about. In fact, it was a rare occurrence indeed to not have to be on high alert for someone falling over, getting up to mischief or doing something they shouldn’t. We probably spent half of our time there inadvertently looking over our shoulders and waiting for the cries of ‘mammy, daddy’. We definitely did relax though. You cannot help but relax at Lisa Ard. There’s a sense of purity and freedom about the place, an enchanted forest feel. Yet the house itself is pure luxury, and if you’re with a large group there are self-catering options as well. We saw one family takeover the lake lodge, which in itself is modern yet luxurious and with a breathtaking view.
There are loads of activities to do at Liss Ard Estate, if you’re that way inclined. You could borrow a bike and cycle around the grounds or head to somewhere like Tragumna if you are feeling energetic. You can also go boating on the lake, or kayaking, or enjoy a spot of fishing. We chose none of these adventurous outdoor pursuits, instead opting for a relaxing head and shoulders massage from the resident therapist. There is no spa at Liss Ard but you can book treatments in advance and I’d highly recommend the massage. The knots in my shoulders had knots, and lying back and having them kneaded away in peace and quiet was just pure bliss.
We stayed in a room in the main house with a stunning view of the lush green grounds. The king sized bed was really comfortable and the shower was glorious - and not just because I got to have one without an audience for the first time in about four years. Downstairs, there are superbly decorated drawing rooms and living rooms, with books galore to enjoy and comfortable couches to lounge back on while enjoying a G&T or a glass of wine. We had both. Dinner in the evening was divine. To start, I had chilled pea soup with a tower of melt in the mouth crab meat, while himself had a delicious pork belly and black pudding combo that was to die for. For the main, I tucked into monkfish, while he had a beef wellington cooked to perfection. Dessert was the most delicious sticky toffee pudding I’ve ever had, and a cheese board. The following morning, during our tour, we spotted where the grow their veg and salads - literally as much as possible is locally sourced and they make the most of all the wonderful natural resources on their doorstep. Breakfast the next morning was a buffet of fresh fruits, cereals, yoghurt, juices and delicious bread and croissants, and you could order anything hot from the kitchen, so it was freshly cooked to order. Delicious. I went for the full Irish while himself enjoyed an eggs benedict.
Saturday is market day in Skibbereen so we headed there to stock up on fresh bread, some cake and a delicious coffee before heading back home to see the kids. It had been less than 24 hours but my batteries felt recharged, albeit a little foggy after that extra G&T before bed. If we hadn’t been in such a rush to go back, there’s so much to explore right on Liss Ard’s doorstep. There’s Glebe Gardens and Baltimore, Glandore and Union Hall, Rosscarbery and so any other gems between Skibbereen and Cork city, which is just over an hour and a half away. Or of course you could go further west, to Schull or Ballydehob, or Brow Head near Crookhaven - where the views are so out of this world that the Star Wars movie is being filmed there this week. Beautiful. Liss Ard is less than four hours from Dublin, just over 2.5 from Limerick, less than 1.5 hours from Cork. I’d highly recommend it to anyone looking for relaxation or a romantic break away. We were celebrating our fifth wedding anniversary and couldn’t have picked a more perfect spot to do so. For more information go to www.lissardestate.com
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